I had been wondering if I could find a theme for spending a weekend in Poznań and it finally dawned on me: if in Paris or Rome you can follow the characters from the books by Dan Brown (grrr, I call him:
Umberto Eco for the birds), then in Poznań you can search for all the locations from
Jeżycjada, a series of youth novels by Małgorzata Musierowicz. And I was right to suspect that this plan would get approval from the friend I was visiting.
We followed some guides, lists and maps found on the web. However, neither of us remembered many details, so there where moments when we did not exactly know what we were looking for. At some point, wandering around the city, we tried to find the monument of a deep-sea diver. We went back and forth, but did not manage to localise it. There was an option that there was no staue at all and it was only a literary fiction; but that was highly unlikely, since Musierowicz always writes about things that do exist. Alternatively, the statue had been removed or somebody had made a mistake placing it on the map. After getting back home, we checked and found out there had actually never been any statue - one little girl used to put flowers underneath a fire hydrant and call it a deep-sea diver...
In general, Poznań tuned out to be a charming city. Before the visit I had not had any great expectations. Yes, Poznań is the capital of Greater Poland and it is a big city, and an old one too. But nobody ever praises it, everyone always talks about other places e.g. Wrocław or Gdańsk.
What I can say to describe the city accurately is that it is anything but flat. And I mean it in both literally and figuratively.
First of all, the ground is hilly. Which makes the city panorama all the more interesting. There are many spots from where you can see various areas and recognise different landmarks, and these views keep surprising you.
What I personally got crazy about were the historical tenement houses. They contribute greatly to the city unique character. They are marvellous and what I find extraordinary about them is that they are truly three-dimensional: so many balconies, roof-towers, bay-windows and all kind of architectural ornaments, slopes and curves, that they seem to be more like living creatures, growing on their own, not just artificial, man-made buildings. Moreover, they are everywhere - not only in the strict centre, but also in the neighbouring districts - and each of them is one of a kind.
The main square is very colourful. Truth to tell, the whole city is.
And the number of fastfood restaurants is very low, you can hardly spot any place of this kind. Instead there are plenty of small cafés, pubs and bistros.
What is interesting the oldest part of the city is not the main square and the area around, but the district on the other side of the river, where the first cathedral in Poland was build and where the first kings were buried.
The full photo-journal can be found, as always,
on Picasa.
The one, huge obstacle that currently makes it difficult to enjoy Poznań is that the city is going to host the 2012 UEFA European Football Championship. Which means that at this moment it is one, large construction area and a work in progess. Still, this commotion is going to be over soon and didn't make me like the city less.
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I do love travelling by train. You get a few hours of undisturbed solitude. You can read, listen to music or simply watch the landscape changing. And there is absolutely nothing to distract you. I believe
tranquillity is the word best describing my state of mind on such occasions.
Stay tuned.